Thoughts Between Temples

June 2023. Following the footsteps of the great haiku poet, Basho, through forested paths and small towns of northern Japan was a delight. Through a 5 day self-guided walking tour we visited many Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, including the famous Yamadera temple where you climb 1,000 steps to reach it at the top of a mountain. We feasted on traditional Japanese meals at onsens (inns) each evening and relaxed in the hot-springs baths. And in the city of Sendai we were introduced to a new sweet treat- the region is famous for their use of soybeans to make a sweet bean paste that is bright green and tastes a little sweeter than anko (red bean paste). They mixed it into malts, cookies, and of course my favorite, mochi (chewy rice dough stuffed with filling).

Always too much food, but always delicious. First course of a traditional Japanese dinner – pickled veggies, sashimi, and notice in the background the fire-roasted whole fish on a stick. Yum!

Here are two of Basho’s most famous haikus from his travels along “The narrow road to the deep north.”

Bitten by fleas and lice, — I slept in a bed, — A horse urinating all the time, — Close to my pillow.

In the utter silence — Of a temple, — A cicada’s voice alone –Penetrates the rocks.

Yamadera Temple complex on the mountain top after climbing 1,000 steps (inspiration for Basho’s cicada poem above)

Reading and thinking about Basho’s poetry, I was inspired to write a series of haiku to remember our journey.

Admiring the variety of potted plants at the front entrance to many homes and businesses in Tokyo:

Craving green beauty — To tame the concrete jungle –Potted gardens spring up

Only 200 steps to the top of this Shinto shrine

My thoughts along the path between temples through the five day walk:

Wooden prayer tablets — Chatter in the summer breeze –Spirits whispering

Pine trees grow atop — Quiet wave carved stones — Summer rain clouds scud the sky

Rain drips from green leaves — Frogs croak, birds singing — A summer chorus

Silent the lavish –Family temple of old — Nature keeps no time

My spirit smiles — Spongy brown cedar needles — Soft green moss underfoot

A bush warbler sings — Hidden in sun dappled trees — The trail curves and rises

Tiny ferns grow on — Ancient stone steps lost in leaves — Mist shrouded mountains

Those seeking divine — Answers to daily troubles — Bow and clap prayers

Late azalea blooms — color pops on temple paths — New bird songs greet me

What do I see here? — Renewing my inner youth — Defies time passing

To enjoy more of Basho’s haikus, I recommend reading the translated book: The narrow road to the deep north. Available here- https://thehaikufoundation.org/omeka/files/original/319f2e52013703df7f135854dc72961b.pdf


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